Gambia Day Eight - in which we grudgingly left and came back to freezing cold England...

The day had come to leave, and we were due at the airport at 2pm, so we spent the morning packing, having a last look around the market and the beach and sitting by the pool. I bought an African mask from the hotel shop and a couple of necklaces from the market. Then our land rover driver, Nikki, took us to the airport and we checked in. Due to the lack of X-Ray equipment for our luggage they had to go through it by hand - and my guy went though my underwear and everything! Embarrassment! Then in the departure lounge we could go outside, and we actually saw the second group get off their plane and we shouted to and waved to them as they entered the airport.
The plane journey went smoothly again, the film was 'Runaway Jury', but the real entertainment was Deborah dancing to the airline radio!
We touched downabout 11:15pm, and I've never come off of a plane feeling so cold!

The Last Post - the relaxing atmosphere of Lamin Lodge clashes with its horrific past...

Gambia Day Seven - in which Christina doesn't feed the monkey!...

Today we set out early again and visited the Batik Factory, which I didn't expect to be outside! There were some lovely sarongs and materials - I didn't buy anything but I did have a go at making one! Next we called at the Technology College, which had computers, but due to volatile electricity supplies they could not always be utilised. They also had typewriters (donated by our school years ago) and sewing machines for the 'less promising' students. Then we went to see Mr Walmsley's old friend Kabba and his family (consisting of two wives and many children, including a gorgeous baby girl called Kora!) We gave them loads of stuff and handed out balloons to his kids. Looking around his compound made me realise the living conditions of people in the Gambia - I bet holes in the roof didn't come in handy in the rainy season!
We stopped for dinner at Lamin Lodge, which was the last post before slaves were sent off to Britain and America in the 19th century. We went for a boat trip first and could see the Banjul Arch 22 in the distance. They did us a nice buffet and everytime I nipped to the loo I got a 'Hey Rasta Lady!' from the singer on the jetty! Also we had to mind out for cheeky monkeys known for nicking food from your plates!
Then we came back to the hotel again for evening meal and a booze-up before we left, and despite having a minor disagreement(!) with a bartender over sangria and offering to speak French for a minute for 5 dalasi, it was a good night!

Gambia Day Six - in which Christina finally gets the hang of talking to the locals!...

Today we visited a maternity-ward-come-baby-clinic, which apparently had been renovated since last year's trip. When we walked through the lady's ward and men's room I felt like a real intruder - it was quite uncomfortable! Next we visited the Brikhama Craft Market. On entry, I thought "I'm gonna hate this!" because people were urging you into their shops and calling at you. However, I really enjoyed the bartering and talking to the shopkeepers! We met 'Mr Cheap', 'Mr No Problem', 'Mr Chicken and Chips', and saw many an 'Asda Shop' and 'Tesco Shop'! By the time it came to leaving I was really getting in to it! Sam and Mrs Hardman ('The Tourist!') had to be dragged away! Then we went to the most westernly point in the Gambia and visited 'Paradise Beach' which was GORGEOUS! It was so breezy you didn't realise you were burning! I enjoyed 'Ladyfish Benachin' for dinner, which was ladyfish (like cod) with rice and a delicious vegetable sauce. We also enjoyed a delightful extract reading by Mrs Hardman about a traveller in Nepal - a great anecdote for before a meal! (Cheers, Miss!) Lauren also got promised marriage and a chocolate baby by a local, and Claire got a proposal from a toothless 60yr old! Score!
Then we (and I mean we, some of us got to drive!) drove along the beach at speed with scum flying up to Tanji Fishing Village. We went to the museum first and saw people weaving - I bought a handbag! - and learned a bit about how people in the Gambia lived traditionally, in compounds. It's strange how the men live separate from the women once they are circumcised, and how the 'Head Man' moves between his wives! Then we walked through the fishing village whilst the catch was coming in - and it wasn't pretty! There were fishheads and piles of fishtails in the sand, and they dry the fish out by laying their carcasses on big tables - nice!
Then we headed back to the hotel for evening meal - and it was drinks and cards all round again!

Gambia Day Five - in which people faint a lot!...

Today was our free day - after seeing Banjul on wednesday everybody opted out of the day trip and stayed at the hotel. The whole day was spent Sunning, Seaing, Pooling and Chilling. I decided to have my hair braided too, so I spent 5 very long hours in the salon with a sore, sunburnt scalp! Poor Sam fainted during hers, which was scary but she turned out fine! The results were worth the 5hrs though, and I finished with 20mins of evening meal time left! I returned to the table without having noticed that Emma had just fainted too! The rest of the night was spent playing cards, drinking and chilling out. It was a well deserved free day after so many days of travelling!

Me and Claire with the kids at Tendaba Camp

Gambia Day Four - in which Christina feels white for the first time...

Today we woke up to go on a boat safari around the mango swamps near our camp, and despite a temperamental engine we saw monkey in the distance, so I was content! Then we came back to the camp and visited the first school before dinner, which was a kindergarten. One boy took a shine to Claire, who had met us on the jetty before the boat trip. He told us he was 18, and hoped to go into computing. The determination of young people here to get an education was a true inspiration, and I resolved never to complain about college again! The children at and outside the school went mad for our balloons and bubbles, and especially for our sweets - ripping poor Emma's bag open! The children sang us a song, and all we could muster in return was a poor rendition of 'If you're happy and you know it clap your hands' and 'Heads, Shoulders, Knees and Toes'! The children then walked us back to camp and after dinner we visited the next school - a 'Lower Basic' (primary school). Again the children went mad on our arrival and sang us songs. Addresses were also slipped into our hands on the tiniest scraps of paper. After visiting the third school, I began to feel aware of how being white affects the way you are treated here; when the people here see that you are white, it's as if they hope you have lots of goodies with you and you feel horrible when you've nothing to spare. Anyway, we made our way back to the hotel and it was an early night all round!

Gambia Day Three - in which Christina (and everyone else!) nearly dies!...

Well, today started off ok. We went on the jeeps to the capital, Banjul, and killed some time there whilst waiting for a ferry. The market was interesting - the colour and variety of fruit and veg was amazingly abundant, contradicted by the smell of fly-infested fish on display! The ferry was an experience too - one guy wanted to marry either Claire or Lauren and a girl of abut 11 was peeling and handing out oranges. Then we had a 10hr long land rover trek over rocky terrain to Tendaba Camp, feeling worse for wear when we got there but perked up after a meal of Bush-Pig. The journey was interesting though, as when we passed villages children would run out of their houses shouting "Tubar! Tubar!" (white man) and waving at us. I can't get over the friendliness of the people in this country! Later on in the camp we watched an African singer and had a dance with the local kids, and admired the stars on the beach (and the scary statues!) before going to bed under mosquito nets.

Craig defies the fireman's pole at Fajara Fire Station!

Gambia Day Two - in which true Gambian life becomes apparent...

We all got up early on the morning of Claire's birthday to a delicious breakfast, including pancakes, danishes, omelettes and traditional English grub! Then we took a walk along the beach and met the Land Rovers at the top. They drove us first to a fire station at Fajara. The fire engines said on them 'Avon Fire Brigade', and the crew were wearing shirts with 'Hampshire Fire Service' on them, as they had been donated from England. They took us up the tower, and we were told that their station was a centre for training fire fighters. We had to mind out all the bird poo dust on the steps - yum! What was strange was the way they asked for our addresses - a theme for the whole week! Then they let us have a go on the pole!
Next we walked along the beach and 'had a go' on a hammock, met the land rovers again and drove to a school. They all sang a song for us which was cute, and Mrs Hardman donated a colours and shapes poster. Then we went to the crocodile pool, and just driving through Bakau made me realise the true squalor people in the Gambia live in. They had open sewers in the street, rusty corrugated iron walls on their houses, and children swarmed the jeeps asking for mints, sweets and pens. I felt guilty that I had none to give. Anyway we visited the croc pool, touched 'Charlie' the croc (though Lauren passed up on that!) and saw a tree with butress roots. Then we headed back to the hotel and went in the pool, sunbathed, and went in the sea before getting ready for Claire's birthday bash! She was so good she didn't open one card until later on! We visited the telephone office so Claire could phone her Mum - that was scary! People staring and asking what hotel we were at! When we got back, Mr Walmsley had decorated the table and bought us wine, and the hotel had provided a MASSIVE cake which even 20 of us couldn't eat! So we took it round the whole restaurant (this was after a few glasses of wine) and offered people a slice! We met some Swedes and some people from Wakefield, so quite a mix! Then we drank the night away!

Gambia Day One - in which we finally arrive!

After waiting 18 months in anticipation, the morning of departure finally arrived. I got up about 5am and couldn't wait to board the plane! We met at the Crown (Mum was sure we'd be late!) and we were on our way! The flight went smoothly; and 6 hrs, a fear of taking off and a helping of 'Calendar Girls' later, we touched down at Yun Dum Airport in the Gambia around 3:30pm. My first impression was "Why is this guy asking for newspapers?", then I was informed that the people sell them afterwards. This was a place where people are not afraid to talk to you!
We met our open-top land rovers outside, the drivers of which hauled our luggage into cages above the driver's cabin, and we got to the hotel in Kotu about 5pm. The rooms were really nice, and Claire and I had an adjoining door into Lauren and Sam's room so we got that open! We could see the beach from our balcony!
Then we went round as a whole group to exploe the area around our hotel. As soon as we came out people were on us! They wanted to know everything about us and were all to eager to be friends! The market area next to our hotel proved to be interesting - we must have met about 50 Del-Boys and Rodneys!
Next we had our first evening meal, and it was an early night for mostly everyone. Oh except for those who stayed for the quiz! Yeah we lost that one!

The Gambia 2004!

We're off to the Gambia tomorrow! Gambia is a very small country in West Africa, and our college (or rather Mr Walmsley) runs a trip there every year, to enjoy the sun but also to acquire first-hand experience of a third-world country and appreciate life in Africa. We have a packed itinerary, such as staying in mud huts in Tendaba, day trips and seeing a Gambian family. I'm sure this trip will be defying health and safety regulations! But hey, I'm really looking forward to it!
So I'll speak to u soon from the Gambia!